All restaurants reviewed are in the New York City Metropolitan area, unless noted otherwise.
I hold certain beliefs about dining in New York. Being ever on the budget, I don't really think that spending more than $15 for a meal is really necessary. There are plenty of diverse places that offer a lot of good food for very little money. After all, you have to eat; why should it cost a fortune? As for atmosphere, well, pshaw! Atmosphere shmatmosphere, let's eat!
These reviews are based on my own experience and those related by dining companions. If I go to a particular place often enough, I can relate opinions on more than one or two dishes. Otherwise, if it is my first time there, I am just telling it like it is. If I become a repeat customer, I will update accordingly.
Restaurants are listed by ethnicity, then in the order in which I wrote them, or skip ahead to the reviews.
Afghan: Afghan Kebab House
Burmese: Village Mingala
Chinese: Broadway Cottage | Wu Liang Ye
French: Chez Brigitte | Florent
German: Hallo Berlin
Greek: Aegean
Indian: Jackson Diner | Sonali | Thali
Mexican: Ah Chihuahua!
Middle Eastern: Bissaleh | Lemon Tree | Moustache
Thai: Won Dee Siam
Vietnamese: Vietnam
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This has quickly become my new favorite restaurant for several reasons. First of all,the one of the owners/waiters, Johnny, is an extremely engaging young man who immediately sets a good tone upon your arrival. The food is extremely fresh and not too expensive, either. As someone who refuses to spend too much money on a meal, I have happily spent more than my usual $15 cap on meals here. I have visited Sapore six times in three weeks, which is probably a record for dinner places I frequent.
The menu is authentic, inexpensive Italian, covering a whole range of foods including pasta, seafood, chicken, fish, and vegetarian, and sandwiches.
The first time I went to Sapore I had the grilled salmon with greens and a side order of steamed broccoli (costing around $12). On the second visit, I had the superb black linguine with calamari and shrimp that were quite fresh and tender, not rubbery and unchewable, in a spicy almost arrabiata sauce. Last Friday night, I had the grilled bluefish special--the fish having been caught by one of their waiters that very day. It was served with steamed broccoli and fresh plum tomatoes. Johnny obliged me and served me a side of spaghetti marinara for just $2 more. There is a lot of cheese in some of these dishes, but not in an overpowering way. The spinach salad, for example, is served with walnuts and bits of gorgonzola cheese--just enough for flavor.
The bread is hearty and served with a plate of olive oil and fresh sprigs of oregano. The kitchen is quite small and quite visible from the tables, behind what must have been a take-out counter in the site's former incarnations, and you can hear Johnny communicating admirably in both Spanish and Italian. They also play some good music there as well.
The sole drawback to Sapore is that it is a bit small and popular, and subsequently, you might be overpowered by a neighboring convesation or have to wait a bit. But I have never waited for too long. Cuisinewise, it's two steps above the nearby--and very saline--Artepasta.The service from everyone has always been very pleasant.
Sapore (a name most people immediately associate with the Japanese city Sapporo) is a fine place that you can bring anyone to--friends, family, or lovers. You'll have a great meal and you're right in the heart of the Village, within walking distance to the Quad Cinema, Film Forum, the Waverly, the Art Greenwich, and even places more distant like the Angelika, or in Chelsea and the Flatiron District.
It doesn't hurt that they carry Lurisia, my favorite mineral water from Italy, either.
--10 June 1998
The cuisine of Burma, like its geography is nestled between Thai and Indian cuisines. While more closely mistaken for Thai food, the Burmese menu at Village Mingala also contains elements familiar to Indian cuisine afficionados--samosas, pakora-like vegetable or lentil fritters, and aloo, or potato, dishes.
It was a dark and rainy night recently when four of us slogged our way to Village Mingala before seeing the ill movie Illtown. The service was slow-paced, but was more than adequate, and they always refilled the water.
The appetizer platter comprises Golden Triangles--a fried, samosa-like potato; long, tight spring rolls, lentil fritters, etc. In general, a good value, unlike many places that give you a very little bit of everything.
One wonderful dish I always get either here or at its Upper East Side sister location, Mingala Cafe (Second Ave. between 72nd and 73rd) is the Ginger Salad. It contains no greens,but crunchy shreds of ginger, coconut, cabbage, and nuts, in a light lemongrassy dressing.
The Night Market Duck Noodles are a lighter, nongreasy version of a Chinese Duck Lo Mein, and I always enjoy them. Also enjoyed that night were a curried potato and noodle soup, a vegetarian chick pea dish, lemongrass grilled chicken with vegetables, and the "thousand layer bread."
Meanwhile, on the dessert menu, there is delightful mango and green tea ice cream. In general, we had good long meal and no one rushed us out, which is a nice change of pace in New York.
Overall, you cannot get a bad meal at Mingala; go see for yourself.
Village Mingala is convenient to the Loews Village VII, the Village East Cinemas, and the Angelika, as well as countless bars, stores, and coffee houses.
This is one of many narrow and cheap restaurants on Ninth Avenue in the 50s. Overall, my trip here with Byron was a good one, but it reminds me what is annoying about New Yorkers; we want things pretty quickly. I was rather annoyed at first that it took a while to get menus, and forks, and food, and the bill. But later I recalled hearing on the radio during the Gulf War that it is an intrinsic part of Arab urban culture to stay up late and linger over food, coffee, and conversation in restaurants late at night.
All of these petty annoyances were dissolved by two factors: A flavorful shawarma sandwich and a grand total of $7 for two sandwiches. Byron has been there before and said that often the man who appears to be the owner is often there alone serving many more diners than the dozen of us there that evening.
Caveat: Poor acoustics, or is is good acoustics, cause every loud conversation to ricochet off the walls and ceiling. It did not take too many people to make Lemon Tree a very loud place, making quiet conversation impossible.
Overall, Lemon Tree is a damn good value and makes wonderful food, but getting prompt service and quiet, if that's important, is probably a matter of timing. A good place to go after the $3 movie at Cineplex Worldwide. They also have a second outpost in the Village at 89 MacDougal Street.
--26 September 1997
Nestled midway between the homes of two dear friends, Broadway Cottage is a delight and a half. A narrow place with exposed brick, this Chinese restaurant covers the basics extremely well, and offers endless free wine or soda for dinner.
While it swims in more oil than peanut sauce, they have good cold sesame noodles. The same is true of the Szechuan dumplings. I have had several dishes there, including Chicken and Snow Peas and General Tso's Chicken, but my favorite is Chicken with Young Ginger Root. A spicy brown sauce accompanies string beans and chicken, with spectacularly large slices of ginger that simply awaken the senses. Andrea is partial to the Capital Chicken, whose red and green peppers are quite bright, the sure sign of freshness, steamed to perfection, and no pre-cooking and throwing it on when the customer arrives.
The staff is extremely accommodating; there was no problem when we asked to move away from a table that was apparently the genesis of a raucous bachelor party no one, hopefully, would survive.
All this and just $14. What more could you want from a Chinese restaurant?
--26 September 1997
What seats exactly eleven people and is open for lunch and dinner? Chez Brigitte has been a Village tradition for years. While Brigitte died a while ago, the talented staff have carried on her tradition of French home cooking and even talking to you in little bits of French (even though they are clearly not French).
Do you want Boeuf Bourgignon with roast potato? An omelette? A sausage on a roll or with spaghetti? The choice is yours and it is all made in front of you, if you sit in one of the four or five seats facing the ovens and the refrigerated cabinets. The remaining six seats are against the mirrored walls; there is little chance of missing any of the action in this unexpected hole in the wall. Most patrons don't spend more than $10, if that much. There is also a choice of desserts, including flan.
All menu items seem to be available for take out, in case you find the situation too cozy.
--26 September 1997
Restaurateur Florent has been bringing affordable French dishes to New Yorkers since 1985; how is it that I did not go there until the first chilly fall evening of 1997? An oversight, and perhaps its off-the-beaten-path location in the meat market district. You have to pass through a cobblestone No Man's Land to get to its Gansevoort Street home.
A variety of delicacies are available at lower prices than you might expect. Chicken brochettes, rillettes, pates, escargot. There are special dishes every day and they are also available as part of the somewhat more limiting prix fixe menu ($16.50 before 7:30, $18 thereafter). The prix fixe menu includes appetizer, entree, dessert and coffee or tea.
I had a rather large house salad of exotic greens, followed by fussilli in a cream sauce with sausage, mushroom, and larger pieces of tomoto. Tony had a vegetarian chili followed by a rather filling spinach-stuffed chicken breast. We both had a rather firm flan for dessert.
The decor at Florent is understated. Cafeteria-style metal cabinets and a long counter with plain red vinyl stools are subtly underscored by an interesting collection of well-framed professional maps from around the world. Not familiar places you can tell right off but detailed street maps of cities that would only look familiar to their natives or frequent guests.
Florent is one of a minority of eateries that somehow allows smoking, toward the back of the restaurant. An eclectic bunch comes to Florent and for a Monday evening, the place seemed about an hour away from being in full swing. I had called ahead--no credit cards and at some point, it's a good idea to have reservations. Pretty impressive for something that might have been, years ago, a plain old diner. True to the neighborhood, to enter the place, you pass the long translucent vertical "blinds" used in meat packing plants. Its diner roots are not hidden, which accentuates the superlative French cuisine.
Florent himself is a bit of a celebrity in New York, having been one of several people profiled in gay pride subway ads during Gay Pride Month 1993, which was promoted by GLAAD (Gay and Lesbian Alliance Against Defanation).
Florent is open 9 am - 5 am during the week and 24 hours on Friday and Saturday. I paid more than I usually do for a meal out ($50 for two people), but it was well worth it. The trip to Florent, by the way, provides a rare glimpse at neighborhood New York, versus busier places, with high-rises few and far between.
--26 September 1997
I was meeting my visiting Israeli cousins for the first time, and once I discovered they had no dietary restrictions, I was free to find any restaurant that was good and near their hotel. I set about scouting places whose rest rooms could handle Dad's wheelchair. I found Aegean.
This Greek eatery is rather pretty. On a sunny, warm summer Saturday, they throw the sliding doors open and let a lot of light and air in. You are not exactly transported to a Greek isle, but it is very pleasant. Inside, blue-stained wicker-seated chairs surround simple tables. It is all quite nice.
My parents and my newfound cousins (click here for the story behind this) visited Aegean for a late Saturday lunch. Getting the staff's attention was a little difficult, which was annoying to me and very annoying to Mom (boy, don't get her started). But, perhaps it had something to do with the hour. The prix fixe ($10.96) lunch specials afforded many choices and large portions. I had a mixed organic greens salad followed by a generous portion of Pastitsio--a Greek version of baked ziti. Theirs was accompanied with slices of hard feta cheese. Hanoch had some sort of gigantic burger and Ora had a plate of grilled vegetables. Mom simply nibbled on stuffed grape leaves. Everyone seemed to enjoy their meals, which are arranged artfully on their large plates.
Aegean also serves a variety of coffee, from the teeny espresso, to the larger Greek coffee, and the simply gigantic mug of American coffee. Too bad I don't like coffee. Aegean is a place I will probably visit again.
--26 July 1997
I have been to both Afghan Kebab Houses now, the westerly one several times. They are in the middle of the affordable stretch of restaurants on Ninth Avenue. They are narrow little places, so watch for them. They are easy to spot: They have neon signs in the shape of Afghanistan.
Much like Indian food, Afghani food has similar recipes that are just as hearty and delicious, and fried. They have samosa-like appetizers, as well as potato- or pumpkin-stuffed baloos. Soups and yogurt appetizers are also offered.
The entrees come with rice that features raisins and nuts, and it is all quite filling. There are a lot of lamb dishes and pilafs. They also offer side orders of korma--lamb, beef, or chicken. A recent lunch with Cathy was simply two sets of appetizers and a korma for each of us.
The easterly location has photos of every President since Eisenhower and has a copy of Reagan's letter declining the owner's invitation to dinner. They also boast of being the USSR's first military defeat. As long as the Taliban is not involved, I don't care about the politics much. Just keep bringing that food!
--26 July 1997
I have been going to Ah Chihuahua on and off for years. It was first discovered by my co-workers when I worked near the UN, and I later stumbled across their uptown location on Christmas Eve after Linda and I were disappointed to learn that Bissaleh was closed for a private engagement.
Both locations are in narrow little places with enough room for the waiters to pass down the middle (I have yet to see a waitress in either location), which might account for their miraculously low prices.
It takes a little while for the entrees to come, so they serve ample supplies of warm corn tortilla chips and salsa. The entrees themselves are teaming with food. For lunch, you can expect a pair of items (enchilada, chimichangas, taco, burrito, tostada, etc., you get to pick) and at dinner they throw in a taco as well. The entrees vie for space with the pool of beans and rice as well. The combination meals are named after Mexican towns (the Monterey, the Mexico City, etc.) and are delicious. The have a few twists of their own as well. One dish has a lot of tomato sauce, the "suiza" had a green tomato sauce. I don't know anyone who had not liked Ah Chihuahua, and I have been there many times with a lot of people.
The midtown location can be quite crowded at lunchtime, especially Fridays, so we got in the habit of going at off hours on other weekdays. At first the uptown location seemed deserted, but now, it seems to be catching on. At work, we kept it a secret from others. Part of the joy of lunch at work is not seeing your coworkers taking up valuable real estate when you're hungry.
You can easily have lunch for about $8 total.
Caveat: There is a lot of cheese on the enchiladas and other dishes. It can be scary.
NEWSFLASH: Go to Sapore instead. You will be glad you did.
Sometimes you have a meal and you know that there is a special ingredient. Sometimes its rosemary, sometimes it's fennel. Sometimes its love. At Artepasta, there is a a special ingredient that everyone notices regardless of what dish they have. And what is this special ingredient? The special ingredient is... salt!
Overall I have always liked Artepasta, but my most recent visit with the beloved Tony (after seeing Alive & Kicking) was just too salty. My pasta and sausage was salty, as was his Marinara dish. The diner next to us having a chicken dish wondered if there was soy sauce in the marinade. Soy sauce is Chinese for salt.
Salt aside, Artepasta is usually a nice place for dinner. Casual dress is dressed up surroundings describes it best. They have subwaiters dedicated solely to the job of administering Parmesan cheese and grinding the pepper mill for you. Now that's class. Artepasta spans several a few different storefronts that have been cobbled together, and it is not always clear where the entrance is. So, sometimes potential dinners are suddenly on the other side of the door-window looking for ingress, and seem to resemble seagulls who flew in during a storm. Leaving Artepasta can be a challenge as well. You can easily walk right into the kitchen thinking it's the exit.
Artepasta features a reasonably priced menu (my pasta dish was $7.95) that only seems to be more expensive when meat and fish and seafood enter the picture, and even then, the prices are reasonable. The menu is a standard Italian restaurant menus, with appetizers, pasta dishes, and meat dishes. They also serve some wonderful breads accompanied by a little terra cotta plate with olive oil. The plates are rather huge and the tall iron candlesticks can be challenging when the table fills with various dishes.
Overall, you will most likely enjoy Artepasta, unless you have a sodium problem.
There is also an Artepasta up on the West Side around West 73rd Street just west of Columbus.I'm not sure if they have the same menu, but it is probably worth the gamble as well.
Bissaleh is Yiddish for "a little," the implication often being "eat a little something," with the irony being the avalanche of food to follow. As the beneficiary of years of this sort of exhort from both Mom and Grandma, this was familiar to me.
Bissaleh is a kosher dairy restaurant but it is also authentic Israeli food, so their is no limitation to just eggs, fish , and blintzes. The menu is in English and Hebrew and features traditional Yemeni foods like malaweh, a layered dough that here, serves as the foundations for a variety of applications. I had the malaweh pizza, which was quite simply the dough (about the size of an LP record) with tomato sauce and mozzarella on it. It was more than enough food. Laura had the Bissaleh, which was a serpentine seeded dough served with a hard-boiled egg. Catherine had a simple meal of a fava bean soup and a salad. They were rather large portions. The prices seem a bit much for some items ($8 for a baked potato?), until the gigantic plates arrive. Even the beverage glasses were huge. We Jews like to eat. Also served were hot, fresh rolls with herbed butter.
It was quite literally a dark and stormy night and the restaurant was half-full. So, we did not have to hurry and relinquish a table. Not that the staff would have noticed. While attentive, they were clearly not in a hurry. An odd mix of appreciable laziness in a city where people will hover around to make you vacate a table they think is rightfully theirs (I should know, I have hovered many a time). A big filling meal comes with one requirement--recovery time. Bissaleh allows this.
Bissaleh also has an outpost on West 72nd Street--appropriately named Bissaleh West. The restaurant is available for private parties, and is often closed to walk-ins, as it was when Linda and I tried to fress there Christmas Eve. Turns out that the private family party that night was attended by none other than Catherine, my dining companion, who made the suggestion in the first place. I will probably be back to Bissaleh. It's good, it's filling, and it's two blocks from my house. Who could ask for anything more. And it's kosher, what's not to like?
--26 July 1997
This little place in Hell's Kitchen names its various wurst dishes after a variety of German cars--the Audi, the Volkswagen, and even the communist Trabant (now used as props in U2 videos). It is a tiny place but somehow manages to have biergarten style bench seating and table umbrellas indoors. In good weather they open the sliding glass windows and have outdoor seating.
The wurst sandwiches come with sides of cabbage, sauerkraut, potatoes. It is all under $10 (considerably under). I only went there once but Tony has been there several times. I recently attempted a visit with Cathy, but when she saw that the countermen were Indian and black, she seemed disappointed. "Not authentic." Of course, she was kidding--she really wanted to go to the Afghan Kebab house--but she had a point. Gast arbeiter are a big bugaboo in Deutschland right now. :)
--26 July 1997
I have been going to the Jackson Diner for about ten years. For all his faults, my ex-boyfriend, Knucklehead, was averse to spending money, and he found this place in a "cheap eats" article in the Daily News. This is his lasting legacy. Sort of a nice antidote to the low self esteem and insecurity he helped foster.
The Jackson Diner reflects the diverse Queens neighborhood of Jackson Heights. Located up the street from the 74th Street station of the IRT and the Jackson Heights/Roosevelt Ave. IND subway nexus, it is in heart of an Indian commercial street. It looks like a diner but it contains an all-Indian menu.
The diner has meat and vegetable dishes and even serves the ungainly large dosai dishes, a specialty from the south of India. The appetizers feature the usual Indian delights--large samosa, pakura, papadum. The entrees can be too large, but they will happily wrap the leftovers. If you ask for it to be spicy, watch out, it will be.
The restaurant wisely places a large plastic pitcher of water on the table, so you can self-medicate after hot dishes as needed. All these things combine to make the Jackson Diner very crowded on weekends.
On Sundays, the Jackson Diner features an all-you-can-eat lunch buffet. They clear out some of the tables near the window and set up tables with salad, rotis, raitas, aloo gobi muttar, chicken tikka, chole, and curries. Most people don't go back more than once. There is more than enough to eat.
The Jackson Diner is worth the trip, even from Manhattan. Parking in Jackson Heights is not easy, so take the subway. It's near the corner of 37th Avenue right on 74th St., less than a block from the subway.
--26 July 1997
I had never heard of this restaurant, which apparently has outposts in the West Village and Park Slope as well. A rather small place, it features ceilings covered backlit fabric and copper tables that are cool to the touch. You can easily get out of Moustache for under $12, especially if you are with other people. We shared a plate of Middle Eastern salads--tabouleh, humous, and the like. We each ordered a fresh pita--but these are not your ordinary flat pitas. These were freshly made thin pitas that arrived all puffed up from the oven, with steam coming out the hole you might poke in it when it arrives.
I had a merguez sandwich--minced lamb sausage with tahini sauce, lettuce and tomatoes wrapped up in a fatter pita. Others in our party had falafel sandwiches and pitzah--a pizza on pita..
The major appeal of Moustache is that everything seems to be fresh. Not just fresh that day, but fresh that minute. The staff was also attentive and friendly, which in New York City is a major asset and alone rates it at least one star.
Once upon a time there was a favorite restaurant on Indo-Pak Row. We all went there, together and separate, after trying out many of the other restaurants, and there were things that made it special to us--cheaper, better, more meat on the menu, and constant water service. Believe me, when you are killing your tongue with the flames of vindaloo, you want water on table without having to flag someone down.
That restaurant was Romna, and it was Bengali-Indian. It was wonderful but it got worse, to the point where I even saw a rat scurry across the red carpeted floor. Then it finally closed. But then, Cathy introduced me to Sonali.
Ah Sonali, narrower than an IRT subway car, and dimly but beautifully lit. At least it was until all the Christmas lights that provided illumination were taken down.
Sonali is one of many that features low prices, but follows in the tradition of Romna. And there is a reason. After my umpteenth visit I asked about Romna and discovered the proprietors were related. This restaurant features and early bird special that comprises papadum, samosas, pakura, mulligatawny soup, tandoori chicken, a curry or other dish of your choice, and the usually array of condiments: cabbage, daal, tamarind sauce, the deadly green sauce, the deadly red onions, etc. The meal is finished with spiced tea and firni, a rose water pudding of sorts. All of this for about $7, from 5-8 pm.
Going a la carte is not much more expensive. The other day Laura and I had samosa, banana fritters, aloo paratha, mulligatawny soup, chicken korma and two cokes for a grand total of $20, with tip. The food is always fresh, as fresh as a lot of fried foods get, and I never leave feeling hungry. The portions are not overwhelming but they are quite satisfying, whether they are the mild coconut sauces or korma or fiery sobji, dansak or vindaloo. There was one meal where I was literally bested by the heat of the sobji.
While there is chicken, beef, and lamb on the menu, there are vegetarian dishes as well--curries and biryanis. The Chana Bhaji--whole chickpeas in a savory sauce served with a puffy poori bread, is also a wonderful appetizer.
Note: Tell the waiters that someone at your table is having a birthday, and watch what happens. But make sure the person being honored does not literally mind taking the spotlight and being the center of attention for a short period of time.
--7 July 1997
Thali is located in one of the narrowest commercial sites I have ever visited. I had been there once before when it was a Middle Eastern place with no customers. When Tony and I arrrived one Sunday evening, there was just one table left, so we took it. Everybody there seemed rather quiet, and I can guess why. Thali has taken a lot of the guesswork out of eating Indian food. They have done this by simply bringing customers the same meal, servied in a metal tray filled with smaller metal plates. Every meal is the same. There is no menu, no choice. Every metal tray of food is $9.
The food is adequate, but rather bland compared to the many Indian meals I have had. I did not like the squash and okra dish they served, so that was one less teeny-tiny dish for me to empty. It is among the least memorable meals I have eaten, in terms of what I had. However, it is quite memorable in that we were so hungry that Tony and I headed over to Manatus, because we were still very hungry from the meagre portions they served at Thali. (He had onion rings and I had a chocolate pudding.) Frankly, that we had to figure out what we ate from the glowing New York Times review is not a recommendation. If you want a good cheap Indian meal for $10, go to Sonali on East Sixth Street, where the early bird special dinner will leave you sated and full, rather than dazed and
On a crooked little street in Chinatown called Doyers Street,
where the
road bends and you can see both Pell Street and Third Avenue, is Vietnam.
Just a short walk down the staircase lies a drab little place with wood
veneer tables and red vinyl seats, and fabulous affordable food.
I have been going to Vietnam since I first spotted it listed in Time Out's
Cheap Eats listing in the the fall of 1995. Two people can have a very
full meal, with dessert, for less than $25.
Unfortunately, I am a real creature of habit, and I tend to have the same
dishes over and over. I am a cuisine recidivist. The Vietnamese Spring
Rolls come with a flavorful dipping sauce, and a bed of lettuce and mint
leaves, along with cucumber and carrot slices. The Fried Shrimp Crackers
are greasy but delightful, and look like giant ears.
The Grilled Lemongrass Chicken over Rice Noodles is also a
delight. The
portion is quite generous, with some of the best grilled lemongrass
chicken I have ever had, and a heap of rice noodles, bean sprouts,
julienned cucumber and carrots, and some magical ingredients that separate
this cuisine from Thai or Chinese.
There are about two hundred items on the menu, including items like Beef
Jerky and Papaya Salad, Satays, a variety of rolls, dumplings, and
curries. In the many times I have gone to Vietnam, in the colder months
there is inevitably a table or two having a dish that is served over an
open flame on an individual just-for-you gas burner.
Capping the meal are several delightful desserts. I usually have the
caramel pudding, a.k.a. flan. I have also had the Bananas and Rice
Pudding, which is served hot.
Coffee is served in unique fashion; little yellow water glasses
containing
thick condensed milk at the bottom and a small personal-size coffee filter
with grounds. Hot water is served on the side and you get to brew your own
cup right there are your seat.
The service is, well, interesting. Sometimes a young innocent teen comes
by to take your order, not writing down a thing, and then returns with a
pad of paper. Sometimes all the food arrives at once, but this has rarely
been a problem. Usually I arrive starving and just about everything on the
table is on the endangered species list.
The man to watch for is the oldest one. You'll spot him right off. He has
glasses and a metal filling up front and he smiles a lot. The teen set is
hapless but helpful. There is one grouch, who looks uncomfortably middle
aged and grumpy and knows perfect English. He must be the only staffer who
is fully acculturated to New York, but seems to think nothing of bringing
the spring rolls after the entrees. Is he mad? No, he's just a New Yorker.
Ignore him and enjoy the food. It all arrives at once anyway, so what the
heck.
--7 July 1997
I was en route to see The Daytrippers in Hells Kitchen when I noticed the magic words: $6.95 Dinner Special. So when the movie was over I headed back to Won Dee Siam. What a major little find!
Won Dee Siam is about a month old and seats, at the most, a dozen people. It is a Thai hangout. I was the only Caucasian in the place, and Thai filled the air. That is the mark of authenticity right there--when it's not just for the tourists.
It is mostly meant to be take out, but they will serve you at one of the three tables if you wish. I had Spicy Bamboo--bamboo shoots, peppers, and a choice of meat (add $1 for shrimp or squid). The dinner special comes with a Thai salad--simply lettuce, cucumbers, tomatoes, shredded cabbage and carrots, topped with peanut dressing. The Spicy Bamboo was a mixed blessing that brought involuntary tears to my eyes. I love spicy food, and this certainly was hot, more than I expected. I reserved some rice to cool off my tongue. The waitress/owner (?) was very pleasant and attentive and instinctively brought over more water. She also brought my Pepsi with a cup of ice on the side. Now that's take-out class.
All told, the entire bill, with a dollar tip, was $8.50. I don't think I was even charged for the Pepsi. I will probably go there as often as possible. I have already told the beloved Tony (not my boyfriend) to add it to his list of take-out menus (he works nearby).
Combined with the $3 showings at the Cineplex Odeon Worldwide, a whole evening can be had for under $15. Now that is a blessing!
--26 July 1997
On the strength of a New York Times review, Linda and I ventured into Wu Liang Ye hoping for guaranteed fresh cold sesame noodles. Apparently, a lot of restaurants serve these from a prepared vat in the refrigerator. Who knew?
The food was good, but nothing extraordinary. We shared cold sesame noodles, which were good, but they were not cold sesame noodles. They were warm, not laden with sesame, and spicy. I think we might have gotten Hot Spicy Noodles by mistake. We also shared Crystal Seafood Dumplings with Asparagus. Four for $4. Not exactly a bargain. [The review mentioned these specifically as being $3.75, just eleven days earlier.] But they were good. We both ordered beef dishes. I have had better beef in Chinese places before (let's face it, no one knows if you are really ever getting beef) and this was nothing special. The sauces were brown and unexceptional. Perhaps the other dishes were better. We will never know.
We will never know because we will never go back there. Not because of the food or the service. Not because the place was unclean. Quite the contrary. The place was well laid out and spacious and the Chinese landscape wallpaper was very nice. The fatal flaw were the customers.
First, there is the big decision of where to sit. Most Upper East Siders who visited that night needed to change their minds several times and circled our table with attendant staffers a little too often. If I want someone circling me seven times, I'll have an orthodox wedding, thank you. Then, the loud, rude customers. One idiot trio nearby complained "Look at all that pork!" So why order a pork dish? Then he called the manager over to complain "Look at all this fat!" Well, what did he expect? Also, why did he polish off the dish so expertly. If you are going to lick your plate clean, don't make a special point of "how unbearable" it was. These idiots made sure that every physical exertion was accompanied by loud gruntings.
It did not end there, though. I was then witness to a couple, their friend, and their shrieking kids. The ringleader started to interrogate the poor waiter. "I want the zucchini cut very thin. What kind of oil is used?" For crying out loud. Why not just bring your own oil and cut the veggies yourself! Who are these people. There is a limit on how choosy you can be. Dining should be a pleasant affair, with good people and good food and good service. These Upper East Siders had no idea that they had not in fact left their house and that these were not their servants. The only thing that did not happen was someone screaming into a cellular phone, at which point I would be forced to send them to their rooms without supper.
There are 25 Chinese restaurants between my house and 86th Street. I can afford to be choosy. There is a reason for delivery. My cats make better dining companions than do the people in my community. Order in. We followed this experience with a video viewing of the Chinese cautionary tale Ermo.
--26 July 1997
Copyright © 1997, 1998, Seth J. Bookey, New York, NY 10021, sethbook@panix.com.